11
October 2013
10:08 Depart from Odawara
12:14 Arrive
at Kyoto Station
Lunch at Kyoto Station
13:30 Bus No.206 to Kyoto Nene House (or
Taxi ~1200 Yen)
Getting off at
Higashiyama-Yasui bus stop (東山安井 バス亭)
15:00 Kyoto Eastern Area
Trip
- Kiyomizu Temple
- Ninen zaka/ Sannen zaka (二年坂・三年坂)
- Yasaka Pagoda (八坂のとう)
- Kodaiji
(高台寺)
- Ishibe Koji（石塀小路）
- Yasaka Pagoda (八坂のとう)
- Maruyama Park （丸山公園）
18:00 - Dinner
- Yasaka Jinja （八坂神社）
Kiyomizu
Dera (清水寺)
Located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the
eastern part of Kyoto City, Kiyomizu-dera is a historic temple that was
established in 778, even before Kyoto became the capital of Japan.
Since its foundation, the temple has
burned down many times. Most of the current buildings were rebuilt by the third
Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu in the early Edo period (1631 to 1633).
The Main Hall (Hondo) of the temple is
designated as a national treasure. The temple has many other important cultural
properties including the Deva gate, west gate, three-storied pagoda and bell
tower. In 1994, it was registered on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List as
one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.
The two most famous places of the temple
are the Main Hall, where the Eleven Headed and Thousand Armed Kannon
Bodhisattva - which is famous for the power of answering prayers - is enshrined
and Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a
precipice.
Kiyomizu Stage was built using a special
method; huge 12-meter high keyaki (Japanese Zelkova) pillars were assembled
without using a single nail and the floor was installed using more than 410
cypress boards. The View of the city center of Kyoto from the Stage is
magnificent.
Kiyomizu-dera (the temple of clear water)
was named after Otowa Waterfall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been
falling there since its foundation. Fifteen colorfully-painted halls and
pagodas stand in its verdant precincts.
Ninen
zaka/ Sannen zaka (二年坂・三年坂)
These
contiguous streets are filled with quaint shops in Japanese style buildings.
Aside from the telephone wires over head, this part of Kyoto is among the very
few areas that present a unified wooden cityscape. The shops offer many
traditional items, from incense to fans to woven goods.
Yasaka
Pagoda (八坂のとう)
The
pagoda is 49 meters high. It is said
that this pagoda was built in 592 by Shotoku-taishi, a prince in that
period. This pagoda had been destroyed
by fire and rebuilt several times.
Current pagoda was rebuilt in 1440 by Yoshinori Ashikaga, the 6th Shogun
of Muromachi government, making it the oldest pagoda in Kyoto.
The roofs are
"honkawara-buki"style and its unique shape was designed to protect
the pagoda from the rain and strong wind.
Once you go inside the building you will see a long pillar that goes all the
way up to the top. This pillar is only held by a foundation stone on the ground
and a pagoda finial on the top, keeping the whole pagoda in balance. Three
Buddhist relics were buried inside a foundation stone here.
Religiously, this pillar is like a
"artery" that connects three Buddhist relics with a pagoda finial
which is believed as Buddha`s grave.
Kodaiji (高台寺)
Jubuzan
Kodaiji (Rinzai School Kenninji Sect)
Kodai-ji
Temple is located north east of Yasaka Hokanji Temple at the foot of
Higashiyama Ryozen Mountains in Kyoto. It is officially called
Kodaiji-jushozenji Temple.
The
temple was established in 1606 by Kita-no-Mandokoro (1548-1624) in memory of
her late husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598). Kita-no-Mandokoro was also
known as Nene. She later became a priestess and assumed the name of Kodaiin
Kogetsuni. In July 1624, Sanko Osho from
Kenninji Temple was welcomed as the
principal monk and the temple was then named Kodai-ji. Tokugawa Ieyasu
(1542-1616) (the first Tokugawa shogun) financed the construction of the
temple, resulting in its magnificent appearance.
Currently
Kaisando (Founder's Hall), Otama-ya (Sanctuary), Kasatei (Teahouse), Shiguretei
(Teahouse), Omotetmon (Gate to Sanctuary) and Kangetsudai (Moon Viewing
Pavilion) are designated as important cultural properties of Japan.
Toyotomi
Hideyoshi and Kita-no-Mandokoro are enshrined in "Otama-ya" and their
graves lie under the state of Kita-no-Mandokoro. Shumidan (dais for a Buddhist
image) and Zushi (small shrine) are decorated with splendid makie (Japanese
lacquer with gilded patterns) which is known as "Kodai-ji Makie",
typical of the Momoyama period. (late 16th century)
The pond garden around
Kaisando is said to have been designed by the great garden designer, Kobori
Enshu.
Kita-no-Mandokoro received the rank of
Juichii (the highest rank a woman could receive from the emperor) in 1588 and
the title of Kodaiin from Emperor Goyozei in 1603. Kita-no-Mandokoro died on
September 6th, 1624 at the age of 76.
Ishibe
Koji（石塀小路）
Ishibe-koji,
a quiet area of town lined with ryotei (restaurants) and ryokan (Japanese-style
inns), is permeated with the romance of the Taisho Period. Ishibei-koji was
originally developed as an area for rooms for rent, and luxurious rental homes.
Its stone-paved streets add to the feeling of luxury.
Maruyama
Park （丸山公園）
Yasaka
Jinja （八坂神社）
Yasaka
Shrine (八坂神社 Yasaka-jinja), once called Gion Shrine
(祇園神社 Gion-jinja), is a Shinto shrine in the
Gion District of Kyoto, Japan. Situated at the east end of Shijō-dōri (Fourth
Avenue), the shrine includes several buildings, including gates, a main hall
and a stage. Initial
construction on the Shrine began in 656.
The
Shrine became the object of Imperial patronage during the early Heian
period. In 965, Emperor Murakami ordered
that Imperial messengers were sent to report important events to the guardian
kami of Japan. These heihaku were initially presented to 16 shrines; and in 991, Emperor Ichijō added three more
shrines to Murakami's list. Three years later in 994, Ichijō refined the scope
of that composite list by adding Umenomiya Shrine and Gion Shrine.
From 1871 through 1946, Yasaka Shrine was
officially designated one of the Kanpei-taisha (官幣大社?), meaning that
it stood in the first rank of government supported shrines.
12 October 2013
Morning Arashiyama Area
- Sagano Sightseeing Railway
- Toketsu Kyo Bridge
- Tenryu-Ji
- Bamboo Groves
Early Afternoon Kinkaku Ji Area
- Ryoan-Ji
- Kinkaku-Ji
Late Afternoon Rest at Nene House
Evening Gion （祇園）
Arashiyama
(嵐山)
is
a pleasant, touristy district in the western outskirts of Kyoto. The area has
been a popular destination since the Heian Period (794-1185), when nobles would
enjoy its natural setting. Arashiyama is particularly popular during the cherry
blossom and fall color seasons.
.
North
of central Arashiyama the atmosphere becomes less touristy and more rural, with
several small temples scattered along the base of the wooded mountains. The
area north of the Togetsukyo Bridge is also known as Sagano, while the name
"Arashiyama" technically just refers to the mountains on the southern
bank of the river but is commonly used to name the entire district.
12-1 Saga Scenic Railway
The
Sagano Scenic Railway (嵯峨野観光鉄道, also known as the Sagano
Romantic Train or Sagano Torokko) is a sightseeing train line that runs along
the Hozugawa River between Arashiyama and Kameoka. Its charming, old fashioned
trains wind their way through the mountains at a relatively slow pace, taking
about 25 minutes to make the seven kilometer journey and giving passengers a
pleasant view of the scenery as they travel from Arashiyama through the
forested ravine and into rural Kameoka.
Originally
part of the JR Sanin Line before it was replaced by a faster, straighter route
in 1989, the scenic railway route was preserved and outfitted with nostalgic
trains featuring wooden benches. The views along the line change with the
seasons, and the train is particularly popular during the autumn color season
from mid November to early December when the leaves along the ravine change
color. Trains do not operate in winter from December 31 to the end of February.
Each
train is made up of four enclosed cars (with windows that can be opened) and
one fully open car. All seats are reserved, although standing tickets are sold
if the seats are full. Tickets can be purchased at Torokko Saga Station, or at
JR ticket offices in the Kansai Region. It is recommended to buy tickets early
to ensure a seat during the peak seasons. There is no discount for round trip
tickets. A small train museum and diorama can also be found at Torokko Saga
Station (separate entry fees apply).
Travelers
have several options once they reach Torokko Kameoka Station, the terminal
station of the line. They can take the sightseeing train back to Arashiyama or
walk five minutes to nearby Umahori Station from where they can catch a JR
train back to Arashiyama or Kyoto. Last but not least, many travelers combine
the sightseeing train with a Hozugawa River Cruise back to Arashiyama. A bus
connects the train station to the departure point for the cruises.
12-2 Togetsukyo Bridge
The
Togetsukyo Bridge (lit. "Moon Crossing Bridge") is Arashiyama's most
iconic landmark. It was originally built during the Heian Period (794-1185) and
most recently reconstructed in the 1930s. The bridge looks particularly
attractive in combination with the forested mountainside in the background. A
riverside park with dozens of cherry trees is located just adjacent to the
bridge.
12-3 Tenryuji Temple
Hours: 8:30 to 17:30 (until 17:00 from
late October to late March)
Closed: No closing days
Admission: 500 yen for gardens, additional
100 yen to enter buildings
Ranked
among Kyoto's five great Zen temples, Tenryuji is the largest and most
impressive temple in Arashiyama. Founded in 1339 at the beginning of the
Muromachi Period (1338-1573), the temple is one of Kyoto's many UNESCO World
Heritage Sites. In addition to its temple buildings, there are attractive
gardens with walking paths.
Tenryuji
(天龍寺, Tenryūji) is the most important temple
in Kyoto's Arashiyama district. It was ranked first among the city's five great
Zen temples, and is now registered as a world heritage site. Tenryuji is the
head temple of its own school within the Rinzai Zen sect of Japanese Buddhism.
Tenryuji
was built in 1339 by the ruling shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji dedicated the
temple to Emperor Go-Daigo, who had just passed away. The two important
historic figures used to be allies until Takauji turned against the emperor in
a struggle for supremacy over Japan. By building the temple, Takauji intended
to appease the former emperor's spirits.
Tenryuji's
buildings, were repeatedly lost in fires and wars over the centuries, and most
of the current halls, including the main hall (Hojo), drawing hall (Shoin) and
temple kitchen (Kuri) with its distinctive small tower, date from the
relatively recent Meiji Period (1868-1912).
Unlike
the temple buildings, Tenryuji's garden survived the centuries in its original
form. Created by the famous garden designer Muso Soseki, who also designed the
gardens of Kokedera and other important temples, the beautiful landscape garden
features a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees and the forested
Arashiyama mountains. Muso Soseki also served as Tenryuji's first head priest.
12-4 Bamboo Groves
The
walking paths that cut through the bamboo groves make for a nice walk or
bicycle ride. The groves are particularly attractive when there is a light wind
and the tall bamboo stalks sway gently back and forth. The bamboo has been used
to manufacture various products, such as baskets, cups, boxes and mats at local
workshops for centuries.
12-5 Ryoan-Ji
Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺, Ryōanji) is the site of
Japan's most famous rock garden, which attracts hundreds of visitors every day.
Originally an aristocrat's villa during the Heian Period, the site was
converted into a Zen temple in 1450 and belongs to the Myoshinji school of the
Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, whose head temple stands just a kilometer to the
south.
As for the history of Ryoanji's
famous rock garden, the facts are less certain. The garden's date of
construction is unknown and there are a number of speculations regarding its
designer. The garden consists of a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by
low earthen walls, with 15 rocks laid out in small groups on patches of moss.
An interesting feature of the garden's design is that from any vantage point at
least one of the rocks is always hidden from the viewer.
Along with its origins, the
meaning of the garden is unclear. Some believe that the garden represents the
common theme of a tiger carrying cubs across a pond or of islands in a sea,
while others claim that the garden represents an abstract concept like
infinity. Because the garden's meaning has not been made explicit, it is up to
each viewer to find the meaning for him/herself. To make this easier, a visit
in the early morning is recommended when crowds are usually smaller than later
during the day.
Ryoanji's garden is viewed from
the Hojo, the head priest's former residence. Besides the stone garden, the
Hojo features some paintings on the sliding doors (fusuma) of its tatami rooms,
and a couple of smaller gardens on the rear side of the building. In one of the
gardens there is a round stone trough that cleverly incorporates its square
water basin into a Zen inscription, which students of kanji may be able to
appreciate. The Hojo is connected to the Kuri, the former temple kitchen, which
now serves as the temple's main entrance.
Ryoanji's temple grounds also
include a relatively spacious park area with pond, located below the temple's
main buildings. The pond dates back to the time when the site still served as
an aristocrat's villa and features a small shrine on one of its three little
islands that can be accessed over a bridge.
Besides some nice walking trails, the park also offers a
restaurant which specializes in the Kyoto specialty of Yudofu (boiled tofu).
The food is served in attractive tatami rooms that look out onto a traditional
Japanese garden. It is also possible for patrons to order just drinks or share
one dish between multiple people, but in both cases an extra charge applies.
12-6
Kinkaku-Ji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion)
Kinkakuji
is a Zen temple in northern Kyoto whose top two floors are completely covered
in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa
of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and according to his will it became a Zen
temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408.
Kinkakuji
was the inspiration for the similarly named Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), built
by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a
few decades later.
Kinkakuji
is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond, and is the only building
left of Yoshimitsu's former retirement complex. It has burned down numerous
times throughout its history including twice during the Onin War, a civil war
that destroyed much of Kyoto; and once again more recently in 1950 when it was
set on fire by a fanatic monk. The present structure was rebuilt in 1955.
Kinkakuji
was built to echo the extravagant Kitayama culture that developed in the
wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during Yoshimitsu's times. Each floor
represents a different style of architecture.
The
first floor is built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings during the
Heian Period, and with its natural wood pillars and white plaster walls
contrasts yet complements the gilded upper stories of the pavilion. Statues of
the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu are stored in the first
floor. Although it is not possible to enter the pavilion, the statues can be
viewed from across the pond if you look closely, as the front windows of the
first floor are usually kept open.
The
second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences, and has
its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. Inside is a seated Kannon
Bodhisattva surrounded by statues of the Four Heavenly Kings; however, the
statues are not shown to the public. Finally, the third and uppermost floor is
built in the style of a Chinese Zen Hall, is gilded inside and out, and is
capped with a golden phoenix.
After
viewing Kinkakuji from across the pond, visitors pass by the head priest's
former living quarters (hojo) which are known for their painted sliding doors
(fusuma), but are not open to the public. The path once again passes by
Kinkakuji from behind then leads through the temple's gardens which have
retained their original design from Yoshimitsu's days. The gardens hold a few
other spots of interest including Anmintaku Pond that is said to never dry up,
and statues that people throw coins at for luck.
Continuing
through the garden takes you to the Sekkatei Teahouse, added to Kinkakuji
during the Edo Period, before you exit the paid temple area. Outside the exit
are souvenir shops, a small tea garden where you can have matcha tea and sweets
(500 yen) and Fudo Hall, a small temple hall which houses a statue of Fudo
Myoo, one of the Five Wisdom Kings and protector of Buddhism. The statue is
said to be carved by Kobo Daishi, one of the most important figures in Japanese
religious history.
12-6 Gion
（祇園）
Gion
(祇園) is Kyoto's most famous geisha
district, located around Shijo Avenue between Yasaka Shrine in the east and the
Kamo River in the west. It is filled with shops, restaurants and ochaya
(teahouses), where geiko (Kyoto dialect for geisha) and maiko (geiko
apprentices) entertain.
Gion
attracts tourists with its high concentration of traditional wooden machiya
merchant houses. Due to the fact that property taxes were formerly based upon
street frontage, the houses were built with narrow facades only five to six
meters wide, but extend up to twenty meters in from the street.
The
most popular area of Gion is Hanami-koji Street from Shijo Avenue to Kenninji
Temple. A nice (and expensive) place to dine, the street and its side alleys
are lined with preserved machiya houses many of which now function as restaurants,
serving Kyoto style kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine) and other types of
local and international meals.
Interspersed
among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive
and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by
maiko and geiko.
Hanami-koji.
Another
scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa Area which runs along the Shirakawa Canal
parallel to Shijo Avenue. The canal is lined by willow trees, high class
restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. As it
is a little off the beaten path, the Shirakawa Area is typically somewhat
quieter than Hanami-koji Street.
Many
tourists visit Gion hoping to catch a glimpse of a geiko or maiko on their way
to or from an engagement at an ochaya in the evenings or while running errands
during the day. However, if you spot a geiko or maiko, act respectfully.
Complaints about tourists behaving like ruthless paparazzi are on the increase
in recent years.
Gion Corner
Gion
Corner is a unique theater presenting one-hour shows of seven of Kyoto's
professional performing arts - kyogen classical comedy, kyomai dance, gagaku
music of the imperial court, koto harp, bunraku puppet theater, the tea
ceremony, and flower arrangement. Gion Corner is located inside Yasaka Hall on
the north side of Gion's Kaburenjo Hall, where Maiko (apprentice Geisha) and
Geiko (Geisha) give presentations. Visitors can also experience a genuine tea
ceremony and learn about tea ceremony etiquette in a casual atmosphere.
Since explanations of the performances are given in English, Gion Corner is popular among tourists from abroad.
13 October 2013
Morning
Fushimi Inari
Kyoto Aqaurium
(for kids) / Shopping around Kyoto Station for adults
Afternoon Nishiki Street/ Shijo Street
Shinkyogoku Shopping Street
Teramachi Shopping Arcade
13-1 Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha)
Fushimi Inari Shrine is an important Shinto shrine in southern Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and belongs to the shrine grounds.
Fushimi Inari is the most important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital's move to Kyoto in 794.
While the primary reason most foreign visitors come to Fushimi Inari Shrine is to explore the mountain trails, the shrine buildings themselves are also attractive and worth a visit. At the shrine's entrance stands the Romon Gate, which was donated in 1589 by the famous leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Behind stands the shrine's main building (Honden) and various auxiliary buildings.
At the very back of the shrine's main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate covered hiking trail, which starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii ("thousands of torii gates"). The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. The cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate.
The hike to the summit of the mountain and back takes about 2-3 hours, however, visitors are free to walk just as far as they wish before turning back. Along the way, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets. There are also a few restaurants along the way, which offer locally themed dishes such as Inari Sushi and Kitsune Udon ("Fox Udon"), both featuring pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes.
After about a 30-45 minute ascent and a gradual decrease in the density of torii gates, visitors will reach the Yotsutsuji intersection roughly half way up the mountain, where some nice views over Kyoto can be enjoyed, and the trail splits into a circular route to the summit. Many hikers only venture as far as here, as the trails do not offer much variation beyond this point and the gate density decreases further.
13-2 Kyoto Aquarium (京都水族館, Kyōto Suizokukan)
Kyoto Aquarium is modern and
nicely designed, but small compared to Japan's best aquariums. It was newly
opened in March 2012 in Umekoji Park, about one kilometer west of Kyoto
Station. The two-story facility is divided into nine zones with various themes,
exhibiting a variety of aquatic animals. Some visitors may find the entrance
fee of 2000 yen a little steep.
Unique to the aquarium is a
zone that recreates the aquatic environment of rivers in Kyoto and features the
Japanese giant salamander. The aquarium also strives to preserve numerous
species of rare local aquatic life through breeding. In other zones, visitors
can see sea life from across the world, including penguins and seals. There is
also a dolphin stadium with multiple performances per day.
13-3
Nishiki Market (錦市場, Nishiki Ichiba)
Nishiki Market is a narrow, five block long shopping street lined by more than one hundred shops and restaurants. Ever since the Azuchi-Momoyama Period (1558-1600), known as "Kyoto's Kitchen", this lively retail market specializes in all things food related, like fresh seafood, produce, knives and cookware, and is a great place to find seasonal foods and Kyoto specialties, such as Japanese sweets, pickles, dried seafood and sushi.
Nishiki Market has a pleasant, but busy atmosphere that is inviting to those who want to explore the variety of culinary delights that Kyoto is famous for. The stores found throughout the market range in size from small narrow stalls to larger two story shops. Most specialize in a particular type of food, and almost everything sold at the market is locally produced and procured.
Some of the shops freely give out samples or sell sample dishes and skewers meant to be eaten then and there. There are also a few small restaurants and food stands selling ready made food. A few are sit down establishments, although some consist of no more than a couple of stools and a bar. They usually specialize in one type of food, and are often attached to a store of the same specialty.
The
market has a history of several centuries, and many stores have been operated
by the same families for generations. It all started as a fish wholesale
district, with the first shop opening around 1310. A larger variety of shops
moved in later, and the area changed from a wholesale market to retail. Today
it remains an important market for Kyoto and is often packed with locals and
tourists alike. egetables on the 400 meter path from Teramachi to Takakura. The
market is sometimes known as the "Kitchen of Kyoto."
Shijo Street
(Kawabata to Higashioji)
Shijo Street runs through the famous Gion
entertainment district. You'll be sure to find plenty of geisha houses and
other traditional shops. Explore stores offering macha (bitter green tea)
sweets, traditional confectionary, and kimono accessories all concentrated on
the one street that truly captures the essence of Kyoto. On the Eastern end of
Shijo Street lies Yasaka jinja Shrine, the face of Gion. The arcade continues
from Keihan Shijo Station to the western gate of Yasaka jinja Shrine.
Teramachi
Shopping arcade
This shopping arcade is chock full of
variety, from clothing shops for teenagers, to used books, to ukiyo-e
(Edo-period drawings). Many stores specializing in locally produced wares
contain unique items like Samurai wigs. The northern section of Sanjo Street is
lined with cafes and more traditional shops selling items like tea and Japanese
paper.
Shinkyogoku Shopping Street
This shopping district consisting of numerous gift shops and extends from
Sanjo-dori Street to Shijo-dori Street.
